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ARE THE QUOTAS ON CHINESE IMPORTS IN SOUTH AFRICA WORKING?

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketA brief Synopsis

South Africa – Renato Palmi of the ReDress Consultancy Reviews the Quotas

During the month of August, numerous fashion events have taken place in South Africa. Has the fashion sector seen any tangible benefits due the quotas system? According to the Trade and Industry Minister the quota system is working. He says, “Since the implementation of the quotas, jobs have been saved and new jobs have been created.” Yet, his department cannot provide specific data on employment figures relating to the quotas on Chinese imports. The government said that the quotas would create 50 000 new jobs. This equates to 2000 new jobs per month in the clothing and textile industries over a two year period.

The economic intent of the quota system is understandable but the process of implementing them became tainted with political appeasement creating an even wider rift between industry, government and the unions. The Chinese government after initially declining the South African government’s suggestions of restricting imports eventually relented because they knew the returns from alternative economic sectors would far exceed the revenue lost from the import restrictions. After all, the quotas are only for two years. The South African government rushed to implement the quotas to appease the unions – COSATU and SACTWU. In turn, SACTWU drove the implementation to conciliate their constituency where jobs were hemorrhaging at an unprecedented rate. According to the latest statistics, Chinese imports into South Africa fell by 34% in this first quarter of 2007. While there was a drop in imports from China, imports from other exporting countries has begun to grow, indicating that the retail-chains are beginning to implement their new procurement procedures. The impositions of the quotas are linked to developments both politically and economically that occurred more than ten years ago.

Going Back in Time

The challenges facing the clothing and textile sectors in the new post 1994 democracy was by extension a result of the previous regime’s protectionist policy towards these industrial sectors. The new African National Congress (ANC) led government began to reduce tariffs faster than was required by the World Trade Organisation (WTO) and the General Agreement of Trade and Tariffs. The recommendations from these organisations said that the new ANC government should reduce the tariffs over a 12 year period but the ANC reclined saying such reductions should be done within eight years as this would integrate the South African industrial sector into the globalised economy quicker. Many clothing and in particular textile companies did not capitalize on this period to invest in technology updates or skills development and the repercussions are being felt now. (more…)

EVALUATION OF THE 2007 MTN DURBAN FASHION WEEK

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An evaluation study by Renato Palmi of the research house ReDress© on the 2007 MTN Durban Fashion Week that took place over four days in June indicated that the entire fashion week was a resounding success.

The evaluation of the MTN Durban Fashion Week (MTNDFW) was conducted by interviewing fashion designers that participated in the MTNDFW.
The 2007 MTNDFW took place at a new venue (The Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World.) Eighty-two percent of the respondents said that the venue was extremely pleasing and conducive to portraying the uniqueness of Durban.

Even though public attendance was good, 41% of the respondents said that they still felt that South African consumers saw fashion weeks as a form of entertainment and not as an important economic sector that contributes to employment and development in South Africa. (more…)

FAIR TRADE – An Academic Argument

Discussions with South African Students relating to the Clothing Industry
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By: Renato Palmi

A preliminary research study relating to ethical fashion with South African students had a positive outcome where just over seventy percent of the respondents said they would be prepared to pay a little extra for fair and ethical clothing.

Invitation to Global Community

The author of this study is inviting fashion organisations, design colleges and fashion designers working within the environment of fair and ethical clothing to write to him about their work and if they think ethical fashion is sustainable within the context of the global clothing industrial economy as part of a larger research study he is undertaking.

Introduction

Although the ideals of fair trade and the ethical clothing are based on similar arguments, ethical clothing is focused on placing pressure on retailers to change their buying behaviour and to educate consumers about the labour conditions of specific clothing factories. Where the two merge is the desire to provide opportunities for co-ops, and provide consumers with alternative products that have been made in a fair and un-repressive environment.

A focus group of twenty-two first year business students from the University of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa were interviewed about the concept of fair and ethical trade within the context of the global clothing industries. A set of five questions were posed to the students after they viewed a presentation on fair trade by the author of this report. (more…)

The Clothing Industry in Myanmar

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketThe Mr Price Group Limited Importing Apparel from Myanmar (Burma)

South Africa. The Mr Price Group Limited, a large clothing retailer in South Africa is importing apparel from Myanmar. The discovery made by the author has found women’s long sleeve shirts retailing at Mr Price with a “Made in Myanmar” label. In response to the quota restrictions on Chinese clothing imports South African retailers said that they would be forced to find alternative suppliers – discovering that one of these alternative suppliers is Myanmar is very disturbing considering the blatant human rights and labour violations that take place in a country that is governed by a Military Junta.

The Clothing Industry in Myanmar

The clothing sector in Myanmar, which is known for its extremely poor working conditions, is a vital industry earning approximately US$400m in exports in 2001/2[1] According to research the average weekly hours spent in the factory by a worker in the garment industry is 60 hours. Copies of 2006 salary slips from workers in the garment industry reflect that the average monthly wage including overtime can vary between US$ 14.00 to US$ 36.00. For a worker to earn +- US$ 36.00 per month they need to put in nearly 157 hours over time.[2] In 2000 it was reported that there were over 300 export orientated garment companies in Myanmar employing in the region of 120 000 people.

In July 2004, the military government introduced a new law to regulate labour in factories that employ over 100 workers. The government established the “Workers’ Supervision Committees”(WSC). This comprises of four representatives elected by the workers but chaired by the factory owner. (more…)

Designs on fashion as a business in South Africa

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketMOST of us see fashion designers as glamorous artists with skinny models strutting in their creations along the catwalks to catch the eye of the rich and famous. But there is more to being a fashion designer, and their economic contribution to KwaZulu-Natal’s coffers is often underestimated.

While Cape Town and Johannesburg are often lauded as the fashion centres of the country, Durban has had a consistently successful fashion design industry since the early 1920s.

Research analyst Renato Palmi, who is consulting to the MTN Durban Fashion Week to establish the economic benefits of the event, said that designers were artists who often did not fully understand the business side of their profession.

“Many local designers don’t even know how much it costs them to make up a garment, or how it should be priced to ensure they make a profit.”

Last year’s MTN Durban Fashion Week attracted 66 designers who were all interviewed by Palmi. “More than 10 000 people attended the event last year and 80% of the designers said they had managed to gain direct orders for their clothing.

Sustainability

We were also able to establish that each designer employed at least four people and outsourced work to the cut, make and trim (CMT) industry, which adds to the sustainability of clothing manufacturing in the province.” (more…)

A Survey of South African Clothing Companies in KwaZulu-Natal – 2007

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketThis survey was undertaken during May-June 2007 on behalf of the Durban Fashion Council, which is an initiative of the Durban Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

Acknowledgements

This telephonic survey was conducted from the premises of Durban-based Lucy Clothing by Mrs. Judy Morrison and Mr. Renato Palmi, who developed the conceptual framework for the study, designed the questionnaire and analysis tools, and synthesised the information provided in this report.

Parameters of the survey

The KwaZulu-Natal National Bargaining Council for the Clothing Manufacturing Industry list, as at May 2007, cites a total of 347 registered clothing companies as employing 26 785 persons. For the purpose of this study, a sample of companies employing a staff complement of over 50 was identified. Of these 90 companies, a total of 25 (30%) were interviewed. This equates to 7% of the overall number of registered companies in the province. Although the sample base is small, the outcomes of the survey can be regarded as a fairly representative profile of the KwaZulu-Natal clothing industry.

The telephonic interviews were based on a questionnaire with either owners or senior managers of the sampled companies. The survey consisted of 23 questions divided in three sections. The first section (Questions 1 to 9) relates to employment, production and equipment. (more…)

The ReDress Report – South Africa: June 2007

DIVISION IN THE FASHION RANKS

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketThere has been a fair amount of responses from the article on the MTN Durban Fashion Week debating the value of Fashion Weeks in South Africa and their benefit to the South African fashion sector. What is obvious from the debate is that there is a clear division in the fashion sector between those who support the Sanlam SAFW and those that support the Durban and Cape Town Fashion Weeks. As an independent observer and one that has been saying for a long time that the industry needs to put aside their territorial affiliations for the betterment of the whole industry it is very frustrating see that this spat continues.

I conducted a snap survey with some of the designers that took part in the 2006 Durban and Cape Town Fashion Weeks (my reason for excluding the Sanlam SA Fashion Week participants is that there seems to be so much gate keeping around making contact with the participant designers). I hope Sanlam SAFW will change this stance.

I received a thirty percent response rate from designers that took part in the 2006 Fashion Weeks. Nearly all of them said that a year down the line they had seen the benefit of participation in these Fashion Weeks. Some said, “The response was incredible for both press and visibility and business growth.” Another designer said, “I was able to expand my customer base further through private clients and interest from boutiques.” (more…)

Stitching our Heritage, The Role of South African Fashion Design

by Renato Palmi
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An exciting new project under the auspices of the Ifa Lethu (“Our Heritage”) Foundation will be launched at the 2007 MTN Durban Fashion Week in June. Five prominent Durban-based fashion designers under the direction of Greg Wallis, Chairperson of the Durban Fashion Council, are busy finalising their designs for the Ifa Lethu fashion brand.

Creating seams between local fashion to South Africa’s arts and cultural heritage is an initiative aimed at inspiring the nation’s youth with a sense of pride in both their historic roots and a commitment to innovative South African products, explains Narissa Ramdhani, Ifa Lethu’s CEO.

After many hours of screening, the five designers: Karen Monk-Klijnstra, Gugu Msimang, Vino, Steve Manday and Bonga Bhengu – all with impeccable credentials in the fashion arena – were selected for Ifa Lethu’s debut foray into fashion, on the basis of their ranges being “street-smart, with a hint of ethnicity, aimed at a youth market between the ages of 16 and 24″, says Wallis.
(more…)

2007 MTN Durban Fashion Week

Presenting Opportunities for South African Designers
By Renato Palmi

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at PhotobucketOn a warm cloudless night in May, with the sound of the Indian Ocean basting the beach, the 2007 MTN Durban Fashion Week (MTN-DFW) was officially launched at a new venue – the Suncoast Hotel and Towers, situated in the heart of Durban’s famous Golden Mile. Designers mingled with socialites and the elite of the city’s fashion industry. The event will run over four days, from 27-30 June.

Thirty-four South African designers will present the products of their creative skills during 18 shows on a ramp set up in the unique glass encapsulated 504-seat marquee. One of the primary aims of the 2007 MTN Durban Fashion Week is to catalyse the careers of emerging designers. “After a national search, 14 young designers were selected to take part in the MTN Young Designers event”, said Vanashree Singh, convenor and director of the MTN-DFW. Singh said the future of South Africa’s industry lies in the hands and eyes of the new generation fashion designers, and the showcase event is “geared to promote the business of fashion and to allow these designers to network with industry leaders.”

One young designer is Michelle Lowe from the School of Fashion Design in Pietermaritzburg, whose range is a ready-to-wear bohemian look for the “metro-male”: “I am so excited about being part of the Durban Fashion Week and I know I will learn a lot from this experience.” Lauren Taylor from Durban’s University of Technology is another participant, who describes her garments as representing

“feminine elegance with clean-cut lines and a focus on promoting environmental responsibility. Another young designer taking part in the (MTN-DFW) is Melissa Paulus from Linea Academy. She entered because of “sheer ambition to be recognised as a South African designer”
(more…)

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