on Aug 8th, 2007The Dress Shirt
by Alex Yoo and Aran Lawrence
The Dress Shirt
A gentleman’s dress shirt is the defining item in his wardrobe, and as such he should choose it with care. The quality of fabric, color, pattern, and fit are of the utmost importance. Following a few simple and timeless suggestions, a man can distinguish himself where many have come up short. Most men are wearing their collars too tight, sleeves too short and too full around the wrist, and improperly proportioned for their specific body type. This guide will teach you how to avoid these pitfalls, select a shirt style that will compliment your physique, and help you cultivate a refined style.
Upon making this important choice, prudence dictates that you stick with it so long as your physique remains the same. It is better to wear a complimentary style day after day than a variety of less flattering styles. Let us now turn to finding your perfect shirt.
Fabric
Selecting a fabric of the finest cotton will set you apart from the crowd and highlight your sense of good taste. One major difference between a good shirt and a fabulous shirt is the fabric. It also happens to be the most costly component of a quality shirt. The easiest way to distinguish a high quality shirt is to feel the fabric for its softness, density (but not thickness) and luster (shine). Cottons that are of Egyptian and Sea Island origin are known for their smooth and silky characteristics and are considered the finest in the world.
Many men are now wearing non-iron fabrics, which have broken into the mainstream of business attire. Non-iron shirts come in two varieties: 100% cotton fabrics treated with special chemicals, and cotton-polyester blended fabrics. Chemically treated cotton fabrics offer convenience but in their present form they are coarse, short-lived, and lack aesthetic appeal. Cotton-polyester fabrics iron easily and are wrinkle-resistant, but because polyester is made from petrochemicals the fabric does not “breathe” like 100% cotton fabrics.
Collar
The collar is perhaps the most important style element of a dress shirt. What is the most important feature of a person? Yes, the face. Think of the face as a picture and the shirt collar as its frame. Viewers’ eyes follow the collar to the face, so a man must be aware of choosing a collar style that will enhance his good features and hide his unique features. A man with a round face should choose a straight point collar, which is narrow between its points and counterbalances the round contour of the face. On the other hand, a man with a slender face should wear a spread collar, also known as a “cutaway collar”, which counterbalances a narrow facial contour. Most department stores only carry a few basic collar styles, so shop carefully.
A few additional words about collar styles. Generally speaking, if a man chooses not to wear a necktie, the button-down collar popularized by Brooks Brothers is an excellent choice. While less formal than straight and spread collars, the button-down collar is widely accepted in the United States, particularly in the Northeast where it is often worn with a suit and necktie. Please note that wearing a tie with a button-down collar is a sin in many European countries and should be avoided at all costs. A man seeking a formal appearance chooses the widest spread available to him. Against the straight collar, the spread collar is perceived as dressier and more elegant, for it provides a free view of a gentleman’s necktie knot. However, care should always be taken to observe the rules of counterbalance.
Fit
Finding the perfect fit off the rack is at best a trying experience. Most men will compromise on at least one of several key areas: the collar, sleeve, waist, chest, or wrist. If any part of your body strains the fabric, move to a larger size. Dress shirts shrink to their normal size after four or five washes; consequently, many men eventually find their sleeves too short, and collars too tight – both unsightly and uncomfortable.
An unwashed shirt’s collar should allow two fingers to slip between the neck and fabric. Sleeves should cover the wrist and reach just to the root of the thumb when the cuff is unbuttoned, and be long enough to fit properly when the arm is bent. The wrist should be just tight enough to prevent the sleeve from slipping too far down the hand. The shirt length should reach to the crotch so as not to pull from the trousers when seated or bending down.
A Badge of Pride
Taking the extra care to select a dress shirt that compliments your features is one of the most important elements of a refined appearance. Neglected by too many men today in favor of chemically treated fabrics and compromising fits, a fine dress shirt is a badge of pride as well as a professional tool for self-branding. We at Alexander West are committed to helping you find the perfect dress shirt. Please visit us at www.alexanderwest.com to view our selection of custom-tailored dress shirts.
